Just a Reminder...
Before we jump into this - as with any other animal, it is good to familiarize yourself with their needs before adopting them for the first time. You will want to know what types and sizes of housing they should be provided with (and what kinds of toys will be most beneficial for them), what to and what not to feed them, and the types of treats and other foods that should be supplemented into their diets. While this article will give you an overview of what to expect with a rat, you should do much more research than I can provide here.

Housing
One of your first decisions to make is "What will my rat(s) live in?" Of course, there are hundreds of cages on the market today, but this task is relatively simple. You can also opt to make your own, which I will cover in a moment. But before anything else, you should first know how many rats you will be putting together, or how many cages of rats you will want. If you have a larger number of rats, you will probably want a few cages rather than one gargantuan one (this makes them easier to move and take apart), but the choice is entirely up to you. Choose something you will be willing to clean, but most importantly, is enough space for your rat(s). There are many tools on the internet that can be used for this, such as the FancyRats Cage Calculator, the Ratty Corner Cage Calculator, or the Ratz R Us Cage Calculator, but the general rule is 2 cubic feet per rat[1]. If you're lazy (like me) or are unable to do the math, these tools are very useful. You just enter the cage dimensions and it will tell you what is appropriate! Simple!



In our last issue we mentioned that rats are better kept in same-sex pairs, because of the need for socialization[2, 3]. Rats are nocturnal animals and will be most active when you are not[4]. They need and love human interaction, but no human can replace the interaction of a 24/7 cagemate. It is important that these rats get along well. A little roughhousing is fine, as this is how rats determine dominance and status among their mischief (a group of rats). Sometimes what will look like fighting to you will actually be playing to them. If you see your rats beginning to develop sores or lost patches of hair, however, there is cause for concern. The more room you allow for your rats to have personal space, the less likely you are to encounter this problem.



Most fanciers prefer wire cages to aquariums or plastic tanks. There are a few reasons for this. They are lighter, and larger models come with wheels. Wire cages "breathe" more[5], which allows more fresh air to your rats and more interaction between your rats and your family. The ammonia smell is not as potent in these cages because of this airflow, and though ammonia will always build up in your rats' litter, it will be significantly less noticable. Many of these cages come apart in pieces or collapse, and have removable bottom pans, which make cleaning a breeze. The upper wire structures are likewise easily cleaned (a small wire brush helps, especially if you let the pieces soak in water first), and are easy to transport if the need arises (depending on their size). Wire cages allow for more expansion, as you will be easily able to modify the internal structure with shelves and toys of all sorts (which is also extremely healthy for your rats, as it creates variety, stimulating them and keeping them from becoming bored). Your rats will be able to climb the sides of these cages if they choose to (mine love to), which is great exercise for them. It is important, however, to make sure your model does not come with a wire bottom (if that bottom can be removed, that is fine, too) where the bars are spaced more than 1/2 inch apart (though a solid bottom is preferred). It is unhealthy for your rats to be walking on these wire bottoms as they can get their feet caught (which can cause sprains and broken bones aside from the obvious stress). If your cage does not have a removable wire bottom, it should be covered with something more solid, such as needle point canvas, or a piece of plastic made-to-fit, so that it is more solid and stable[6]. Martin's Cages is a very popular choice among rat fanciers, and a brand I recommend.



Aquariums can be used, but are less common. They weigh more and can be bulky to move around. Cleaning them is likewise easy, but in some cases must be done more often as the ammonia buildup will occur much more rapidly. Sometimes the corners can become heavily soiled, as corners are a prime choice for rats to do their business, and depending on the type of bedding you are using, it can be a bear to clean these corners. Aquariums can be modified as well, but it is a little more difficult. As I stated, you should choose what you are willing to clean. A bonus of aquariums is that they do not readily allow drafts inside, and are very good for keeping rats in when they are ill (such as after surgery, when they shouldn't be exerting themselves anyway). The same can be said for plastic cages with snap-on lids (which are great for travel, by the way), and because these are much smaller in size, they are inappropriate for rats except in some cases (such as a hospital tank or a momma with babies) [7, 8].



Want to make a cage yourself? They work great, as you can customize them to your needs and wants for your rats. The method I prefer involves using an old wooden cabinet. The doors should have their glass replaced with wire, or their doors replaced entirely with wood and wire doors. You can install whatever type of closure you prefer, but be sure to use a closure that is rat-proof. Dead-bolt style closures or tension closures are common, but there are far more to choose from than these. The shelves should be stabilized for your rat's safety, and you can waterproof the surfaces for minimal water/urine absorption. You can connect levels vertically or horizontally by cutting holes in the desired area(s), and providing a ladder for climbing stacked levels. Water bottles are easily attached to the wire doors. Litter boxes, toys, and food dishes can be easily placed and moved around between cleanings for variety.

I will also not even discuss wooden housing. Want to know why? Read this.



You can also merge various cages together, stacking them or connecting them side-by-side. This gives great room for expansion if you decide to house more rats and wish them to live together (provided they will get along). Metal ties and clamps work well to hold them together, and your rat will not be able to chew them off. There are far better long and exhaustive explanations of this that can be found on the net. Some of the best can be found at The Dapper Rat and at The Rat Fan Club (see "Housing").



Bedding
Once you have your cage picked out, you will need to choose the right type of bedding. This will vary depending on how you wish to care for your rat(s), and whether or not you choose to litter-train them[9]. Let it be noted, however, that cedar and pine shavings are arguably not choice forms of bedding for rats. These types of bedding contain phenols and dust particles that can greatly affect your rat's respiratory system, including severe respiratory infections, amongst many other health problems[10]. Some owners claim that they do not have problems with these beddings, but you can make your own choice. (I could list hundreds of sites for this, but I would prefer you Google it yourself and make the decision as to where you stand on your own.) Aspen is significantly different than cedar and pine, however, and some fanciers do use it. This, again, is your choice. Another type of litter that should never be used is clay-based cat litter. This contains far too much dust and fragrance for your rat (keep in mind that their faces are in it all day) and should only be used in litter boxes, if at all[11]. If you can smell it, imagine how fragrant it is for your rats!



That being said, there are many other options that are readily available for use in your rat's cage as well. This list is nowhere near complete, but will cover the most common types available through many stores, whether you physically shop for your supplies or order them online.

• Ecopetbed bedding, which is made from shreds of cardboard. Not only will rats love to chew on it and shred it, but it is also soft and ideal for housing rats with. A finer version of this bedding, called FinaCard is also available. I have used these before as well with no problems.


• Recycled paper products or pellets, such as Yesterday's News, Biocatolet, Bob Martin's, CareFresh, or Pet's Preference. Some owners use the pellets in conjunction with softer bedding to make it more appealing for the rat to walk on. These are highly absorbent and odor-reducing. I prefer to use them in my litter boxes. These are commonly advertised as cat litters, which I have mentioned is a no-no, but they are not clay-based and contain no dust.


• Shredded paper is also okay to give your rat, as long as the ink is non-toxic. Some inks are soy- or vegetable-based. Rats (especially mothers and expecting mothers) love to nest with this type of material, shredding it to their satisfaction and using it in their beds. I use bulk recycled paper with no inks or dyes whatsoever, and my rats love the novelty of it mixed with their other beddings. As with all paper, it can become messy, so you should remember this if you choose to use it. If you have a rat with a light-colored coat, they will likely develop stains and appear "dirty" if paper with print on it is provided.


• Corncob litter is sometimes used, but I would not recommend using it without first mixing it with something softer. It can be harsh on the rat's feet, but is acceptably absorbent.


• Cloth from old clothing or scraps can also be used. Keep in mind that they need to be cleaned and changed often, but they are soft and warm, and do not need to be thrown away as often. They should be washed with a gentle, hypoallergenic detergent. Bleach can be used if necessary, but in moderation, and the cloth should be completely free of any bleach odor before being returned to your rats. In my cages, I use velcro to help keep towels attached to the bottom, while using a different type of litter in their boxes. My rats love to roll up in the loose ends of the towels. You do have to watch, however, that long threads are cut so that they do not wrap around your rat's appendages and cause injury. This is easily done before or after they are cleaned.

There are, of course, many other types of bedding alternatives[12, 13, 14, 15]. You just need to read the labels and do a little research if you'd like to try something new. If you have ever owned or cared for horses, you know that they are also sensitive to dust particles in their bedding[16]. Some companies that produce bedding for horses also produce a finer product which is safe for rats. If you already have a brand that you trust with your horses, feel free to look into their other products!

Food
This is another highly debatable issue, but an important one. Your rat's diet will help determine their overall health, which you would obviously want to impact positively as much as possible. The proper staples and combinations of treats will ensure that your rats are getting the proper vitamins and minerals they need. As with all living things, improper diet can cause many illnesses and diseases. Imagine yourself eating the same thing day after day, with no variety - not only would that be boring, but you would never get all of the nutrition you need! A great example of what a rat needs can be found at the RMCA's site.



It is important to know that food labeled for other small animals, such as rabbits, ferrets, etc. are not formulated for your rat's needs. So avoid anything in general that does not specify "rats and mice" in the label. The mixes that are readily available in stores are in general not a good choice, as a rat will likely pick out what they want from the mix and leave the rest behind, resulting in an improper balance[17]. There are ways to help this, though, if this is what you choose to feed your rat.

One of the best staple foods is lab blocks. Harlan-Teklad produces a lab block that is of exceptional quality, and is quite popular among rat owners. Mazuri likewise makes a great lab block for rats. These blocks may not look attractive, but contain vitamins and minerals geared toward your rat's needs. I have had rats who prefer the blocks over the treats! Appearance can be deceiving, so do not underestimate the power of a good staple. A block with soybean meal as the first ingredient is better for females, and blocks with low protein are better for older males[18].

You should also give your rat a variety of treats, such as fresh/cooked veggies, or fruit. "Human" foods low in sodium and sugar are best to avoid health problems. Treats should also be given in moderation, and varied. You would not want to turn your rat into a picky eater or a fat rat! Bananas, dried cranberries, grapes (or raisins), corn, broccoli, and peas are all good choices. Some other common treats are crackers (watch the sodium, though), dry cereal (such as Rice Krispies or plain Cheerios), and yogurt drops (yogies). My own rats have always loved Cheez-Its, but I use that as a seldom treat due to the high sodium content. More often, I would crumble the crackers and offer them small pieces at a time instead of the whole cracker. This is by far not a complete list, but it is a good start especially if you are unfamiliar with rats.



There are some foods, however, that you should never feed to your rat[19, 20]. Just as some foods are toxic to other animals, some foods are toxic to rats, such as:

• Raw dry beans or peanuts


• Raw sweet potato


• Green bananas


• Green potato skin and eyes


• Wild insects


• Raw bulk tofu


• Orange juice (for male rats)


• Chocolate (candy in general, really)


• Licorice


• Bleu cheese


• Raw red cabbage


• Raw brussels sprouts


• Raw artichokes


• Rhubarb

There are also foods that should be fed cautiously (not often):

• Dried corn


• Beets


• Almonds


• Swiss chard


• Carbonated drinks (rats cannot burp, so think of where this has to come out...)

For more information about why these foods are toxic, see The Rat Fan Club and Fat Rat Central.

You can, of course, make your own diet. One that I follow and find to be most complete (and fun) for my rats is Debbie Docummun's Diet. Whether or not you go to this extreme is your choice. I have never had any problems with this diet, personally, but it is important to at least look into different options to that your rat's diet is varied and well-balanced. Rats have similar needs to humans when it comes to nutrition, and can easily become bored of the same foods over and over again.



Another important thing to remember is the type of water you are giving your rat. Many tap waters contain high levels of iron and other harmful substances. If your tap water is chlorinated or flourinated, you should not use it - it is toxic[21]! If you do use tap water, run the water until it is coming out of the faucet cold. Less contaminants (especially lead) will remain in the water, as it is flowing straight from the source[22]. Hot water contains more lead[23]. Better options are bottled water, so if you use bottled water be sure to share the wealth with your rats. Read the labels carefully, however, as some bottled waters are merely fancy tap water. I personally prefer Fiji water, but your choice is up to you. (I am also not sure of Fiji's availability other than in the US.) Always make sure that no matter what water you are giving your rat, it is always fresh. It should be replaced daily or every other day. Bottles are exponentially better than water dishes, because rats tend to make messes and will contaminate their water with waste and bedding if used in a dish. You'll have to clean these out more often, as well. This is common sense.



Accessories
Other things are needed to stimulate your rat(s) than just proper housing and meals. Rats should be provided with a number of activities to keep themselves healthy and entertained. Like other small animals, rats need chewing toys to grind down their ever-growing teeth[24]. You can buy chew blocks in pet supply stores, in many different varieties and flavors. Some chewing blocks are made of wood; some are made of minerals. Other types are available, too. You should provide your rat with whatever they are willing to use. Care of their teeth is very important!

Rats should also be provided with places to hide. Hammocks are a favorite among rats, and can be easily attached to wire cages with metal clips. They love to lounge in them. These hammocks must be cleaned - more often if your rats like to do their business in them. They can be purchased or made easily (polar fleece works best), and are inexpensive. Another good choice is a house; these come in plastic or wood, but other materials can be used. Your rats will likely chew on them, which will further encourage the grinding down of their teeth. I personally prefer to use PVC piping or to provide them with a box that they can feel free to tear up. I find the wood hard to clean, and if you ever happen upon a parasite problem, the wood will have to be thrown out as the parasites can reside in them. If the wood splinters, they become unsafe. I don't recommend wood, but the choices are up to you.



If you chose a wire cage, a good way to add vertical space is the addition of shelves (provided your cage is tall enough to accomodate them). The climbing is good exercise for your rat, and lets you make full use of the cage. The shelves can be moved around between cleanings to give them a better variety, so they do not grow bored. Plastic shelves are generally better than wire shelves for the same reason a wire bottom is bad for a rat's feet. But if you do have wire shelves, you can cover them as explained above and still enjoy their use without risk.

Rats love to climb[25], so providing ladders, ropes, and other tunnels between different areas of the cage will keep them busy. My boys also like bird mirrors and bells, and will jump to jingle the bells just to hear the sounds. I have given them plastic cat toys with jingle balls in them, and they love to throw them around as well. You can be creative when deciding what to give your rats - just make sure that it will be safe for them. Wood and plastics are generally fine, as well as hard dog bones (the kinds that do not splinter - small fragments can choke your rat - many types are available nowadays).



If you are going to provide a wheel, make sure that it is appropriately-sized for rats (Wodent Wheels makes some good ones). Young rats can fit into wheels made for hamsters and other small animals, but as they get older they will need much more room to get in and out of that device. My rats have always loved the exercise of a wheel, as have my mice and other critters. It provides endless running and walking activity for when they are not "out and about" with you.

But remember that rats will always crave attention outside of their cage, as well. You can set up play areas for your rats in your home for them to have "free roam" time, but should always be supervised. In our next issue (which will essentially be the second half of this article), we will discuss caring for the rat in your home, and rat-proofing.

For more rattie goodness, visit ~TGRH's gallery!


Citations:
[1] About.com - Top 9 Cages for Pet Rats (Popup warning)
[2] NFRS - Why Rats Need Company
[3] RMCA - Why Rats Need Company
[4] About.com - Rats as Pets (Popup warning)
[5, 6] AFRMA - A House for Your Mouse (or Rat) (Cages) - Wire Cages
[7] AFRMA - A House for Your Mouse (or Rat) (Cages) - Aquariums
[8] AFRMA - A House for Your Mouse (or Rat) (Cages) - Plastic Cages
[9] The Dapper Rat - Rat Articles
[10, 13] Ratguide.com - Cage Bedding & Litter
[11, 12] Ratz.co.uk - Rat Bedding
[14] About.com - Top 10 Alternatives to Cedar and Pine Shavings (Popup warning)
[15] New World Stud - Litter & Bedding - A Review
[16] HorseData.co.uk - Animal Bedding
[17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23] The Rat Fan Club - Rat Health Food
[20] Fat Rat Central - Diet
[24] RatFanClub.org - Overgrown Teeth
[25] Suite 101 - Pet Rat Care