Right then!

A while ago I promised this series as I’ve been asked a lot on my post processing techniques… However I thought I’d start with a logical beginning and work my way through to finish with post-processing. As there’s so much to go through, I’ll split it up into these sections:

Part 1 – Introduction and equipment
Part 2 – Composition, Exposure, Aperture and ISO (The basics)
Part 3 – Shooting RAW
Part 4 – Landscape specifics
Part 5 – Street and Architecture specifics
Part 6 – Macro specifics
Part 7 – Portrait specifics
Part 8 – Post-processing – Standard
Part 9 – Post-processing – HDR
Part 10 – Post-processing – Advanced


The reason I chose to do this is because if I simply tell you the processing techniques it will not help all of you. A poor starting image will never be as good as it could’ve been no matter what the processing… It has to be captured properly in camera first.

The aim of these articles is to help you. I am by no means a professional, and am still an amateur. My views on processing are my own, if you disagree, or have better solutions then feel free to say, just don’t be rude.

During these articles, I will use some of your images as examples. The images used are done so to give you examples of what I’m trying to explain…

If you want any other sections, feel free to ask.
And now we start! (Prepare for a shed load of reading)

PS. I’ve just been writing a bit, and just wanted to say that if there’s something you don’t understand, try googling, or wikiing it first. If you still don’t get it, then feel free to ask. I’m here to help.

If you’re still reading, this article is long! I’ve put headings in so you can skip to what you want. Please fav the article if you find it helpful and feel free to post links to this in your journals…



Part 1 – Equipment

Point and Shoots

These are basic digital cameras. They allow you to capture what’s in front of you but don’t allow for much control. I started with a point and shoot, and its rubbishness helped me immensely. It taught me that composition was incredibly important and helped with my post-processing skills as the images straight out of camera were awful. There are much better ones than the one I had, and in general go for the big companies for better IQ (Image Quality). (Canon G series being one of the best.)

Something to note here. There are very expensive point and shoots available now. I saw an ad for one. It has the ability to recognise faces, focus on them, wait till they smile, and then take the picture without you pressing anything! Personally, I’d prefer a cheap DSLR to one of these, but that’s just me!

SLR “likes”

These are pseudo DSLRs. They look similar, but you can’t change the lens. These offer better IQ than a p&s due to a larger sensor. They also allow for more control due to the program modes like Av. I used my dads whilst in Cornwall last year, and they are reasonably good.

Digital SLRs

Now this is where it all gets good. Most people won’t need anything more than one of these. They vary vastly, and can cost you from £300 - £5000 just for a body. Now you do get a difference in quality for this hike in price and if your planning on investing do your research carefully.

Some help:

[link]
[link]
[link] (for you Brits)

Now the top two do reviews, and the bottom does prices. Now there’s a LOT to say with regards to the rest of choosing, but here are some minimal basics to look out for:

Full frame or crop body:

You get better IQ with a FF and is far better for landscapes. For sports/wildlife a crop body could be better.

ISO:

How much noise you get at higher ISOs. This is one of the more important features for me.

Speed:

Only for sport/wildlife.

There’s probably other important stuff, but I can’t think of it now. Live-view is NOT important. I have a cam with it, and the only time I use it, is to run down the battery before a recharge! (And the occasional macro).

Also, the feel of the cam, and the viewfinder is important. I’d recommend you try out the cam in the shop, with the lens to get a feel of whether you like it. More expensive cams are more ergonomic, so if you do street and need to change settings on the fly it might be worth the investment.

Film SLRs

Nasty, filthy, dirty film. Bleurgh. Other than that, they give excellent quality! I’ve never shot film, but I’ve seen results that are impressive. Film is great for street, the graininess gives a wealth of atmosphere that PS has trouble recreating. Film is great, but you have to finish the role to see your results and doesn’t leave much room for error.

Medium/Large format and panoramic

The beasts. They give ultimate quality and print size. They give exceptional quality and I’ve no idea how to use them. The panoramic ones shoot in 16x9 format (I think) so no stitching required.

Lenses:

Come in a variety of focal lengths and quality.

Prime vs Zoom:

Go prime. If you can. The corner sharpness is better with a prime, though a zoom has more going for it practically. The pro quality zoom lenses try to bridge the gap, but you pay the price for it!

Other:

I’ll mention specific lenses under the parts for different styles of photography. A tip for buying… Shop around, see if you get cashback. Another massively important point:

If your lens isn’t as sharp as you thought it would be, send it back! You may have a dud copy. However, check first. When I got my 10-20mm I thought it was soft on the left, but after trials, I realised it was just me being inept!

Peripherals:

Remote releases:

For long exps. and macros.

Tripod:

For long exps, macros and landscapes

Filters:

So many! I’ll do the specifics in the relevant sections.

Woah… If you’re still with me down here, I congratulate you on reading that! I’ve got through 2 episodes of Stargate and a bit of Wimbledon and I’m finally done. It lacks a bit of detail at the end, but it will be covered in the relevant sections. Thanks for reading, your feedback is much appreciated.

Dipesh.