I published "Photographing Horses (and sporting events)" nearly a year ago, and it achieved great success along with helping out other artists. I have learned a great deal more since then, and I thought an updated version of the article could prove useful. So, here it is, new and improved!


I. The Camera
All right, first things first. You need a camera. Sure, this is a given, but for the beginner photographer this can be an overwhelming process. I hate to say it, but you're going to have to spend a good chunk of cash in order to make good photographs. A DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera is especially ideal; simple point-and-shoot cameras really don't cut it as their functions (especially manual functions) are limited in comparison to SLRs.

I'm not going to go into a camera-buying guide, but I'll make a few suggestions. A great starter camera is the Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT - if you don't want to go broke buying a camera, or aren't quite gung-ho about the whole photography thing, this is a good find. When this camera came out it retailed for around $1000, but now you can find it for under $500. I used this camera for about two years and had a great time with it. Personally, I love Canon products, and now shoot with a 40D. However, brands such as Nikon and Sony are very reliable as well.


II. The Lens
What lens you use depends on what you are photographing. For events, I use a Canon 70-200mm telephoto - I can shoot from a distance and the images turn out wonderfully. Personally, I adore my Canon 60mm macro as well - it brings out such great detail and color. It may not be ideal for events, but when you can get close enough it can work just fine. However, for equine and human portraits, it's perfect.

I also enjoy the Canon 28-135mm USM that came with my 40D. I don't use it as often, but it's a nice lens to have for general everyday shooting. I used it all the time while my telephoto was being repaired, and it gave me some nice images as well. What's nice about kit lenses is that it works for up close and far away - I could shoot a horse passing right by me and be able to zoom in on a horse farther away too.

Telephoto:


Macro:


28-135mm Kit Lens:



III. Shoot Manual
There is no better way to dictate how your capture will appear than to shoot in manual. In my opinion, there is no reason for shooting automatic if you know anything about photography - seriously, come on. Your images will turn out so much better if you shoot manual. If you want, you can switch to automatic to see what shutter speed/aperture your camera would use, but I wouldn't rely on it.

When shooting high-action shots, try to crank up the shutter speed to as fast as the light will allow. Higher than 500 is preferential. In order to do this, you'll also have to widen your aperture - this, also, will minimize your depth of field, bringing the focus to the subject which you are focusing on. That's kind of my personal style though; you may want a larger depth of field for your images.

f/2.8:

Another option is shooting in TV or AV. In 'TV', you may specify your shutter speed, and the camera will automatically adjust the aperture in order to create a balance, and will keep adjusting when the light changes. In 'AV,' it is just the opposite - you specify your aperture, and the camera will set the shutter speed. Of course, both of these depend on your lighting situations, and you must make sure that you're not using a slow shutter speed; that will just produce blur. If you're in a place where the lighting is changing, such as when clouds will pass over the sun, this can be helpful especially when you don't have time to fiddle with your camera settings.


IV. ISO
My rule of thumb - keep your ISO as low as possible! Your camera's ISO setting determines how much light is let into the camera; basically, for everyone who has shot and developed film, it's the speed of the 'film.' Sure, you may be able to use super-fast shutter speeds when shooting at 1600 ISO, but your image is bound to be grainy and very difficult to work with. Generally, a higher ISO is used when there is less available light, and a lower ISO is used when light is abundant. For sunny days, I try to keep my ISO at 100/200 in order to produce a clear, sharp image while still using a fast shutter speed. When shooting indoors, however, 800 or 1600 are best. Don't sacrifice your shutter speed in order to use a low ISO though - a low ISO is ideal, but you don't have to go all the way down to 100 in order to produce a good image.

Note: You will probably have to adjust the ISO with each lens you use. Telephoto lenses generally require more light and you may not be able to use as fast of a shutter speed, so you probably will be shooting at around 400 ISO outdoors.

ISO 1600:

ISO 800:

ISO 400:

ISO 320:

ISO 250:

ISO 200:

ISO 160:

ISO 100:


V. Framing & Composition
You are responsible for every little detail available to be seen in your photograph. Hence, you are also responsible for excluding or including what you can. Before pressing the shutter, check your composition. A bad background or distracting object can easily ruin a good shot. Not everything can be easily fixed in Photoshop!



VI. Be Original
Looking through the images of the companies that photograph events, I see the exact same shot over and over again, only with a different horse and rider. Their shots are just boring. When I photograph horse events and other sports, I make sure to be original - I want it to still be artful. Make sure not to get lazy - explore angles and levels, moving your body in order to achieve the shot you want.

Also...don't only photograph what everyone else is watching! Go behind the scenes. Photograph the crowd, the entire scene. That's what a horse show, or any other event, is all about.



VII.Timing
Timing is absolutely essential when photographing action shots. Personally, it's far easier to photograph horse jumping being a rider myself, and therefore I know the strides and know exactly when to press the shutter. This takes practice, but it soon becomes natural. Waiting for a split second can make a world of a difference.



VIII. Focus on the Eyes
If anything, the eyes of the horse (or any creature) must be in focus. We naturally are drawn to the eyes of any person or animal, and if they are blurry, then the image is out. They say the eye is a window to the soul, a means of expression; without them, a great portion of the art is missing.



IX. Ears Forward=Happy Horse
A horse with its ears forward is alert and generally in a good mood; therefore, they make a good subject to photograph. When a horse's ears are back, the horse is tense and unhappy, which is never a pretty thing to photograph. If you have trouble having a horse pay attention to you or focus, keep a few treats at hand in order to draw his attention to you and put him at ease.



X. The Rider Matters Too!
Let's face it - the attractiveness of a rider matters, depending on what kind of shooting you're doing. If the rider is wearing an angry expression, or something of that nature, it simply detracts from the photograph. Unfortunately, the fact of the matter is that horses are far more beautiful than humans, but we must work with riders as well. You also need to decide whether the emphasis will be on the horse or the rider - this can be worked on in the post-processing as well. The teamwork, however, is essential, and it is our job to capture that special connection.



XI. Emphasize the Beauty of the Horse
This part is kind of a given. Horses are magnificent creatures, so let's not insult their beauty by taking bad pictures of them. Enough said.



XII. Shoot, shoot, shoot!
The old saying "practice makes perfect" could not be any more relevant. If you're shooting digital, take advantage of not having to pay for rolls and rolls of film. Don't be afraid to fill your memory card! Even better, have an extra on hand! With so much going on, you'll want to photograph as much of it as possible. Try not to delete photos unless they're obviously no good; wait until you can see them on your computer. When you start shooting digital, it's kind of hard to get over the fact that you're not wasting film - but go ahead and experiment, you're not wasting anything!



And Some General Photography Tips...
-Read up! I have an abundance of photography books and horse books which have contributed greatly to my knowledge. There are all sorts of tips and tricks to learn.
-Be prepared for all situations - pack everything that you can carry! Extra batteries, lenses, etc. If you're moving around a lot, though, only take as much as you can reasonable carry - it's a drag to be running around with a camera and bag banging against your hip.
-ALWAYS HAVE YOUR CAMERA MANUAL WITH YOU. You never know when you'll need it! You never know when you'll accidentally press the wrong button and need to know how to undo it. Be sure to read it thoroughly - it'll make your life a hell of a lot easier.





Start shooting! And, most importantly, don't forget to have fun! I hope these tips will help you with your experience in photographing horses.