Several people have asked me to compile an article consisting of tips and techniques for air show photography, And while I consider myself to be a fairly average photographer, I’m happy to share some of my techniques. But I had so much information, that I needed to split the article up. So this is part 1, dealing with equipment.


Equipment

Cameras and Lenses

First off, for those that don’t already know this, leave your cell phone in your pocket unless you’re calling someone, and if you insist on taking pictures with your phone, don’t stand in front of me.

I want to open the discussion on equipment by saying that I am a 100% pure digital photographer. I’ve never shot with film, and I most likely never will. I’m not holding a debate on whether or not film is a dead format, I simply can’t afford to shoot with film, and it doesn’t work well for my purposes. If you have questions with film, or want to know how any of these tips relate to film photography, find someone who does use it and is familiar with it.
There are two main types of digital cameras: Point-and-shoot and Single Lens Reflex (or SLR).
For the most polished and professional results, as in any type of photography, you’ll want to use an SLR. The sensor on a point-and-shoot is about ¼ the size of the sensor on an SLR, leading to loss of resolution, and high amounts of digital noise. (A speckling or colored aberration in your image.) For a full explanation of why that is, one has to have a basic understanding of how a digital photo sensor works. Sensors are made up of millions of photodetectors. These microscopically small, electrically charged detectors each make up one pixel in the image, and can have an influence on the detector next to them because of the electromagnetic field they each generate. This effect worsens at higher ISO sensitivities (we’ll discuss this later.) and when they are closer to each other. So just because you’re cramming 12 megapixels into a tiny camera doesn’t necessarily mean that the image will be any cleaner. You will probably still have to deal with a medium to high amount of noise at evening type lighting or lower, including indoor shots.

SLR cameras offer you the largest amount of flexibility of any system on the market. Not only do you have you’re choice of an enormous amount of lenses, but you also have the option to go “full manual” and choose the right ISO, shutter speed, and f-stop for that particular shot. (just remember to change it back when you’re done. more on that later.)
As far as lenses are concerned, I can’t recommend using anything lower than a 300mm focal length for aerial shots. Wide angle lenses are fine for static shots but will do you no good when the subject is at any distance from you.

On the ground however, static shots are best taken with Wide angle lenses.

I typically carry the standard kit Canon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 and a Sigma 28-90mm f/3.5-5.6 Macro. I’ve never been completely happy with my Sigma lenses. I keep the 28-90 because it’s not broken yet, it fills the gap between 55 and 75, and it’s the only macro lens I currently own.

300mm works best for formation demos (like the USAF Thunderbirds, the Navy Blue Angels, Snowbirds, Red Arrows, etc.) a single ship will probably not fill the frame properly. That being said, I can’t afford anything larger than a 300mm lens at this point, so all of my shots are done with a Canon 75-300 f-4/5.6 III lens. (A basic, if decent quality lens that won’t set you back any more than about $165 USD. If you shop around though, you can grab up used this lens used for $100 USD or less.)

A 400mm lens works great for the single ship demos or for civilian acts, but they can be expensive for decent quality lenses, especially the faster ones (having a lower F-stop number or wider aperture) but they will provide nice tight images. Remember the primary goal of action photography: FILL THE FRAME!

The other option is point-and-shoot cameras. As we’ve already discussed, a small camera with a 3 or 4x optical zoom (don’t even bother with digital zoom. Turn it off and don’t ever touch it again. Forget you even have it. All it will do is ruin your pictures) will probably not be adequate for anything in the air. However, there “Super-Zoom” or ZLR (Zoom-Lens Reflex) cameras such as the Canon S5iS (12X Optical) or the new Nikon P80 (18X Optical!) (no need to rub your eyes, I did just recommend a Nikon camera) that will do quite well for aerial shots without hitting your bank account quite as hard as an SLR. I still don’t recommend these over SLRs. At one point, my small camera had broken down and I had to decide if I wanted to buy a ZLR or save up for an SLR. For the kind of work I do, it was necessary to go SLR, so I bought the original Digital Rebel. It’s still a great camera 3 years later, although I’ve since graduated up to the 20D.

Pods?

Tripod? Probably not. Given the inherent fast action nature of air show photography, I don’t recommend using one. They would probably just get in the way with all of the vertical motion of the airplanes. However, if you want to shoot in lower light for static shots, and if you don’t mind packing it with you all day, By all means, bring one.
Monopod? I never leave home without it, but not for the typical usage of a monopod. I’ve started adopting a technique where I put my rig on the monopod and raise it as high as I can over my head with a remote shutter release to get higher angle shots of the aircraft on static display.
iPod? Maybe. I usually bring mine with me to local air shows here in Arizona, as I usually don’t have anyone to talk to, but I prefer to listen to the airplanes, so most of the time I’m not using it anyway.

Filters

I don’t have much experience with filters personally. I rarely use them. I occasionally use a UV filter more for lens protection than any other reason. I have used Polarized filters in the past, and I found that I didn’t have much use for them. A Neutral Density filter will give you a slightly longer exposure to give you a good way to capture prop-blur on propeller powered aircraft.



Bag

I currently use a Canon SLR backpack to carry all of my crap with me. I occasionally bring a Camel-Bak hydration bag with me if I know it’s going to be a particularly hot air show. It’s not perfect, but it’s better than paying $3 a bottle for water.
I have, in the past, used a photo vest. The vest works great. It gives me easy access to everything I need. The only problem I’ve found, apart from being a fashion no-no is that when you’re stationary, you tend to take off your backpack and park it for a while. The vest just usually stays on, and after a long day, it started to hurt my back quite a bit. But then I usually pack too heavy, so maybe that’s just my problem.

Clothes
This may sound like a no brainer, but I’m constantly amazed by what people wear to air shows. First of all, dress in light colors. Every guy I see out there with an all black F-117 shirt ends up sunburned through their shirt. Do not underestimate what the sun can do to your water filled, meatbag of a body. I wear white shirts and shorts usually. I also recommend picking up a loose fitting breathable long sleeve shirt. This will keep the sun off of you and still keep you relatively cool, allowing any breeze to evaporate sweat without frying your arms.
Comfortable shoes….. I can’t emphasize this enough. The first time you go on the “Miramar Death March” which is about a mile hike from parking to the flight line at MCAS Miramar in San Diego, or the first time you get the tops of your feet sunburned because you wore sandals, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. Just be prepared for lots of walking, and harsh sunlight.
Hats are a must. Even if it’s just a ball cap, you should have something on your head. I wear a Military issue Boonie hat. It’s wide brimmed and I can fold it up and put it in my pocket. It breathes well, and it’s oh-so fashionable! (sexy!)
Of course, dress appropriately. If it’s 20 degrees Fahrenheit outside, then don’t wear shorts. Just use common sense. Don’t dress for fashion, dress for your environment.
And don’t forget sunscreen. Skin cancer sucks.

Memory

The short answer to “How much memory should I carry?” is: as much as you can afford to carry. Cards fail, And if you’re shooting in volume, like I do, you’ll want as much space as you can get. My car wallet consists of 10gb worth of Compact Flash cards. I’ll probably never use that much in one show, but I have it if I need it. My father always told me “It’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.”
I live my life by this.


Batteries

I carry six BP-511 battery packs with me to every show. If you use auto focus and/or Image Stabilization you’ll need them all. I’ve started using a battery grip for my 20D lately, and I love it. It’s got room for two BP-511s and it comes with a magazine for AA batteries, which makes a great last-ditch power source. It also has a shutter release on it for holding the camera vertically. I never take it off the camera now. Well worth the investment.
Just keep in mind: If you are the kind of photographer that likes to “chimp” (view pictures on the LCD screen after you’ve taken them) then you’ll need more battery power. If you use flash, it will kill your batteries. If you use auto focus it will kill your batteries. I’d say minimum three battery packs, depending on your shooting habits.

Etc.

I carry a small folding tripod chair with me to every air show. Since I’m usually alone, I need someplace to sit, but I don’t want to carry a huge chair with my rig. This chair is about 18 inches tall, and it’s not the most comfortable chair ever, but it gets my knees a chance to rest for a little while.
If you can bring a wingman, do so. There’s nothing worse than going for a potty or lunch break and coming back to find your spot now inhabited by strangers. If nothing else, make friends with whoever your standing next to. See if they can save a spot for you. Air show politics are important. Do not underestimate the power of your neighbor.

The next part of the article will deal with technique and challengine conditions. Stay Tuned